Anti-perfume trails and Molecules 01

I received a gift yesterday that blew me away totally. A Bottle of Molecules 01 : I have never smelled anything like this. EVER! My first impression was cedarwood. A beautiful cedarwood too, it reminded me of a Lebanese cedarwood perfumery essence that I have. It's dark, deep and incredibly velvety. But then I realised that I wasn't smelling a perfume per se, because normally cedarwood is a middle to base note and doesn't come through immediately after applying a perfume and more importantly, at that moment when I expected to smell a different note, what I was smelling simply wasn't there anymore. It did a vanishing act. I became rather perplexed and very curious. Twenty minutes later I felt as though I was sitting in a cedarwood forest on a warm sunny day. Wow! The perfume seemed to be all around me rather than on me.

When I smelled my skin I had to bury my nose before I got the delicious warm clean scent that reminded me of rain on skin. How incredibly sexy!
This morning I wore it to the shops. I was standing at the checkout when the woman mentioned an amazing perfume she was smelling and she asked was it me. I told her the name and she said she was going to ask her husband to buy it for her for Christmas. I told her that Kate Moss, Gwen Stefani and Ellie Goulding deem it their love potion and that it consists of just one ingredient, an aroma molecule so complex that the body can only metabolize it very slowly so that it seems to vanish and then re-appear hours later. I told her that it is supposed to have a pheromonal like effect on men if you are a woman and on women if you are a man. She told me to turn around, there were five men standing in the queue behind me...even though the other checkout on the other side of the shop was obviously free!!!
She picked up a pen and paper...'what's it called again?'. As I was leaving I noticed that she was still smelling the air with her eyes closed. "I'll want to be smelling that all day" she said.

Comments

Comparing Geraniums

First Whiff 1. Himalayan geranium: initial smell is sweet, light and floral. 2. Atlantic bourbon geranium (certified organic): initial smell is dry, floral and slightly bitter. 3, Anatolian bourbon geranium: initial smell, rounder and also dry. More floral than the Atlantic. After 2 minutes 1. Light and sweet but drying out slightly, not at all bitter. A sweet floral note. 2. Much dryer, becoming more leafy now and a green tinge coming through. 3. Also much dryer but becoming more fruity than leafy, more of a soft fruity floral. After 5 minutes 1. Is still light and now fruity floral, still more sweet than dry. 2. A distinct bitterness which is not present in the Himalayan geranium, a dry floral note. 3. No bitterness, the more fruity of the three. After 10 minutes 1. A definite citrus note coming in from nowhere, lifting this one up again, mmmmh I'm really enjoying the Himalayan geranium. 2. A softer herbal tea type note, less bitter and a little cloying compared to the Himalayan ...

Working on a violet composition

There is something about violets. The little purple gems that to me represent spring. It is difficult to create a natural violet perfume composition because there is no actual violet flower absolute. There is a violet leaf absolute but it's green and dark and not a sweet delicate floral the way violets are. So...what to do? I am getting somewhere. First of all what is the profile of the perfume of violets? The notes of the flower are tender and sweet, with the complexity of the exotics like jasmine or ylang ylang. The perfume of a violet flower sort of draws you in in a beguiling way and before you know it it's imprinted on your memory never to be forgotten. As I say I am really getting somewhere. As usual getting the top notes stumped me. The question was how do I make something delicate and tender come out on top in a way that will lure a person in. Notes of carnation absolute, violet leaf and orris butter are key elements in the composition, using rose, jasmine and yla...

Ambra by Steffen Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

A fine specimen of white ambergris from the West Coast of Ireland - Courtesy of www.celticambergris.com High quality Ambergris like this can fetch upwardly of €99 per gram Ambra , also called Ambregris or Ambergris, is a substance of animal tissue, formed in the stomach or intestine of Physeter Catodon , the cachalot whale. It is conceivable that Ambra is the result of a pathological condition caused by irritation of the whale's stomach walls due to certain indigestible particles in the whales food. Consequently, Ambra is one of the few natural perfumery raw materials which cannot be "cultivated", not even in the same way that pearls, for example, are cultivated. Pieces of Ambra are either washed ashore on various temperate ocean coasts and islands, or they are found inside the whales when these great mammals are captured for their oil (spermaceti oil). There is no particular area where Ambra can be found or searched for with regular success. The "big...

A Natural Perfumers Journal

Search This Blog