A Natural Perfumers Journal

When I am studying perfumery materials I try to imagine what type of personality the essence would be if it was a living character.   Here is what I think of Hyacinth. She is always late. Hyacinth is a distraction in herself and is also distracted by the smallest thing. Like a child, focusing on a serious issue is not something she is good at. Flitting from task to task, she is a butterfly woman. Say to Hyacinth "would you hold on a moment ma'am and I will see if we have that in your size" and then come back 2 minutes later to find her *gone*. Giddy beyond belief, at school she was constantly being told to sit still , which was an impossible task for the girl then and still is now. Hyacinth always seems to be in a good mood, smiling and cheerful all the time . She wants to be your VERY best friend after only knowing you for 5 minutes and "best friends" comes with all the perks, like hand holding or arm linking, hugs for good bye and hugs fo...

I received a gift yesterday that blew me away totally. A Bottle of Molecules 01 : I have never smelled anything like this. EVER! My first impression was cedarwood. A beautiful cedarwood too, it reminded me of a Lebanese cedarwood perfumery essence that I have. It's dark, deep and incredibly velvety. But then I realised that I wasn't smelling a perfume per se, because normally cedarwood is a middle to base note and doesn't come through immediately after applying a perfume and more importantly, at that moment when I expected to smell a different note, what I was smelling simply wasn't there anymore. It did a vanishing act. I became rather perplexed and very curious. Twenty minutes later I felt as though I was sitting in a cedarwood forest on a warm sunny day. Wow! The perfume seemed to be all around me rather than on me. When I smelled my skin I had to bury my nose before I got the delicious warm clean scent that reminded me of rain on skin. How incred...

Watch out for the new floral solid perfume from White Witch for release this winter.  Roísin and Jasmine & Chocolate perfumes are also now available in this stunning hand turned yew box .

There is something about violets. The little purple gems that to me represent spring. It is difficult to create a natural violet perfume composition because there is no actual violet flower absolute. There is a violet leaf absolute but it's green and dark and not a sweet delicate floral the way violets are. So...what to do? I am getting somewhere. First of all what is the profile of the perfume of violets? The notes of the flower are tender and sweet, with the complexity of the exotics like jasmine or ylang ylang. The perfume of a violet flower sort of draws you in in a beguiling way and before you know it it's imprinted on your memory never to be forgotten. As I say I am really getting somewhere. As usual getting the top notes stumped me. The question was how do I make something delicate and tender come out on top in a way that will lure a person in. Notes of carnation absolute, violet leaf and orris butter are key elements in the composition, using rose, jasmine and yla...

We have a new addition to the Natural Perfume Academy's year long Natural Botanical Perfume course starting in May. Shelley Waddington is going to teach a unit about Isolates. "The use of natural isolates is a new cutting edge trend in natural perfumery. This course is designed to allow the perfume student to take advantage of this new trend by providing a basic understanding of what an isolate is, how it is produced, and how to incorporate isolates into their own perfume compositions. The student will also receive a comprehensive bibliography for personal reference. Upon completion of this unit, the student will have a basic understanding of natural isolates and will be ready to begin blending using these fragrance materials. A kit of natural isolates will be available at the store and is highly recommended for the course." About Shelley Waddington Shelley Waddington is the President of Beau Soleil, LLC, and the Chief Perfumer for The Carmel Perfumery, locat...

In coconut oil the sort that doesn't smell of anything and that is light. Atlas cedar over black pepper and blue lavender concrete give soft warm breezy top notes. Orange blossom alongside boronia is a summery and floaty floral. Hay, vetivert and orris gives a really comforting yet lively finish It needs time, but it has real promise. I am amazed at how wonderful this is. Even for an oil it is summery and light. I will do a modification tomorrow and report back. I am thinking of reducing the base notes even though they are in a very low concentration already. I will up the blue lavender and reduce the cedar leaving the black pepper at the concentration it is, maybe. I will increase the orange blossom and decrease the boronia. Then it will be wow I am sure.

Environmentally conscious men and women are finding themselves in a bit of a quandary. Everyday there are more and more companies jumping on the "natural" and "organic" bandwagon, giving consumers and alternative to artificial & chemically laden products and increasing choices. I suppose it is a step in the right direction but is it really? What's the point in buying natural, organic products that are packaged in plastic? We care for our skin and our bodies both inside and out and we care for the planet. We want to make a difference. Somehow we feel comforted by the little recycling symbol on the bottom of out shower gel bottle or water bottle. But do we really know the facts? What really happens to all those empty plastic bottles? Well, the sad fact is that most of the plastic that is recycled is actually from the factory floor. It is not consumer waste at all, and at that it can only be recycled once, into fence posts, garden furniture or synthetic fleec...

Using plant essences for health and beauty | Greenme: Sustainable Living Blog I just started writing for GreenMe sustainable living website. Have a look at this for my first blog. Please leave a short comment on GreenMe to show your support : ) Thank you!

I am running the final tests on a new product line, 100% Natural Scented Bath Crystals. There are three different perfumes; Rain Forest , with notes of Honey Myrtle, Sweet Marjoram and Antique Patchouli. Garden of Eden with notes of Neroli, White Lavender and Atlas Cedarwood. Temple of Luxor with notes of Coriander, Ginger, Rose and Vanilla. These are all about the experience of bathing in perfume. It is recommended that the mood is set in the bathroom before hand with candles and music. The bath temperature is important too. Have it just right before you add the Crystals. That way none of the precious perfume is wasted before you are ready to step in. I want to tell you of my experience with the first in the line: Rain Forest I didn't have the luxury of having the music or the lighting but the perfume alone was enough to take me to another world. The honey myrtle top note had the effect of being uplifting and clearing at the same time. I could feel my lungs openin...

I received a delightful email the other day informing me that I was awarded a One Lovely Blog Award-- by Sheryl Karas who is a spiritual counselor, healer, organic flower essence aromatherapy perfume designer and artist . Thank you!, Sheryl and, in keeping with the tradition of the One Lovely Blog Award I'm posting the Rules of Blog Award Acceptance: 1. Accept the award, post it on your blog together with the name of the person who has granted the award, and his or her blog link. 2. Pass the award to 15 other blogs that you've newly discovered. Remember to contact the bloggers to let them know they have been chosen for this award. So...White Witch Natural Perfumers Journal proudly passes the 'One Lovely Blog Award' on to (I've chosen almost all my favorite perfume blogs). Sorcery of Scent Little Flowers Roxana Illuminated Perfume GreenMe Liz Zorn Perfumes Smelly Blog Oh True Apothecary The Aromaconnection Blog Tea Sympathy and Perfume Inner Ki Journal Memory and De...

Just right for summer. I know I know a floral amber...how safe. I started off with the base and used a blend I have used before but I left out the benzoin as I think it holds down the scent a lot and with an oil based perfume that can't be afforded. I sound like I really know what I am taking about don't I! Well whatever... For the base, I used Labdanum, beeswax absolute, vanilla absolute and ambrette seed Co2. I love the result. It is well balanced and perfect for the floral notes I am planning to use in the heart of the perfume. I did use dilutions and I may have to go back and redo it as I don't know what the longevity of the perfume will be like at this point. Without the benzoin to hold it down it might not last though the labdanum is a very good quality absolute and even when it was diluted down to 20% it was still very thick. The formula I used for the base notes are thus: Labdanum absolute 20% dilution 10 drops Beeswax absolute 20% dilution 3 drops Vanil...

It's been ages, I know, and I apologize to readers for my absence. I have been following up on my goals for 2009. Main goal... to make it the best year yet . To achieve this as you can imagine is no easy task in today's world! I have been reading and looking after my family and the rest can just go and take a hike because I ain't buying into anything that raises my stress-o-meter out of the zero zone! When I was reading I found out some very interesting stuff about females. Women need a hormone called oxytocin to feel good and to lower our stress levels. The more we have the better we feel. We also need something called serotonin to effectively cope with normal day to day living in a nice happy mood. Women use up serotonin twice as fast as men and men store 50% of their serotonin for emergencies. Men are also able make new serotonin twice as fast as women. For me the key to a stress free existence is to make more oxytocin and find ways to make my body create serotonin...

My best moments of 2008 I discovered content management systems. I launched Nature's Nexus Website. White Witch launched a brand new website. We successfully distilled 10mls of pure hydro-distilled tuberose absolute and it was proclaimed by an experienced nose to be of very high quality. Nature's Nexus Academy of Perfuming Arts was launched. I took up Yoga. An amazing mother/daughter moment that is too personal to share but that I have to list was by far the best thing that happened to me in 2008 and is something that I would class as a miracle. I decided that 2009 would be my best year yet.

Hey I almost missed this. I heard that White Witch was mentioned in the lifestyle section of The Irish Times on the 9th of December. If anybody has a copy of that edition and wouldn't mind sending it to me, or scanning it and emailing it to me please let me know. Here it is on line, but I think they had some images in the print edition. Here is what they said. "A small Galway-based firm called White Witch makes great natural, ethical and very affordable beauty products and perfumes with great biodegradable packaging. The range includes a facial steam sachet with rose petals for €2.20 and the magical Bridget's Balm for use on everything from nappy rash to joint inflammation, which costs €6. ( www.whitewitch.ie )."

To the Celts the oak is one of the three magical woods, along with apple and yew. In fact the word Druid comes from the Irish word for oak: Dair. Dair is the seventh letter of the Ogham tree alphabet. The oak symbolizes strength and power. I chose this very special wood for the cases for the kits for NN Academy of Perfuming Arts. The oak in the cases is from Lisnavagh House in Co Carlow. The oak died of natural causes before being felled. Each perfumers case will have a number that can be entered into a website and the owner of the case will be able to read the story of the tree their case was made from. I visited Lisnavagh house myself and chose the timber. It was amazing to see the timber in it's rough state. I chose a beautiful timber with natural silver rays. Lisnavagh House is a a Gothic Revival mansion owned by William & Emily McClintock Bunbury. The timber mills is in the old stables on the grounds of the estate. Here is a model of the case. The finished case will be...

Dylan Thomas - In The Beginning In the beginning was the three-pointed star, One smile of light across the empty face, One bough of bone across the rooting air, The substance forked that marrowed the first sun, And, burning ciphers on the round of space, Heaven and hell mixed as they spun. In the beginning was the pale signature, Three-syllabled and starry as the smile, And after came the imprints on the water, Stamp of the minted face upon the moon; The blood that touched the crosstree and the grail Touched the first cloud and left a sign. In the beginning was the mounting fire That set alight the weathers from a spark, A three-eyed, red-eyed spark, blunt as a flower, Life rose and spouted from the rolling seas, Burst in the roots, pumped from the earth and rock The secret oils that drive the grass. In the beginning was the word, the word That from the solid bases of the light Abstracted all the letters of the void; And from the cloudy bases of the breath The word flowed up, translati...

The peach, Prunus persica is a summer fruit that originated in China. It is typically soft, sweet and juicy when ripe. The skin is a deep yellow with pink and dark red accents. It has a soft 'fuzzy' or velvety texture. The flesh can be white or deep yellow in colour. There is a stone in the center of the peach that is hard and rough. Inside the stone there is a soft nut that looks like an almond. If someone who had never eaten a ripe peach asked me to describe what it is like to eat one this is what I would say: It is only worth your while eating a fully ripe peach. You find out if it is ripe by holding it in your hand. It should be at room temperature or even slightly warm. Press gently at the top of the peach near the stalk. If it is ripe it should yield to the touch, like butter out of the fridge. Hold it up to your nose and smell. A ripe peach smells delicate, floral and sweet, with an edge of woody green. It is easy to bite into a ripe peach. In fact if the peach is prope...

Phytonic rose extract - South Africa (damascena): Gorgeous toffee caramel sweet rose with spicy green undertones. Phytonic rose extract from musk rose - South Africa: Deep sultry rose, moody and luscious. Rose leaf absolute -South Africa: Sweet green hay-like, tobacco leaf undertones. Arctander says about rose leaf absolute, 'When creating a rose perfume or a rose base, the perfumer is often interested in notes that will give him the reproduction of the leaves, the fragrance of the foliage which forms such an important part of the rose gamut; the bouquet of roses is not complete without it.' P.556 Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin by Steffan Arctander. Jasmine grandiflorum C02 from concrete France: Light fruity floral, fresh sweet smoothness, has candy like notes. Jasmine auriculatum hydro-distilled essence (distilled from concrete) : Spicy heady floral with green undertones. Jasmine sambac hydro-distilled essence from concrete: Sweet clean floral, with intense e...

Pink pepper oil; Shinus molle, is an oil that is steam distilled from the fruits of a tree called the Californian pepper tree or the peruvian pepper tree. The tree grows wild in many tropical regions. The fruit was first distilled for use in the perfumery trade when there was a scarcity of black pepper oil and it was used as a substitute. It is described by Steffan Arctander in his book Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin on page 583 as "...whose odor is fresh, woody-peppery, warm-spicy with a somewhat sharp or dry, smoky woody undertone." Black pepper oil; Piper nigrum, is a steam distilled oil from the fruits of the black pepper vine. The vine, piper nigrum, grows wild in parts of India. Most of the fruits from the peppercorn vine are used in the food industry and only a small fraction is actually distilled for the perfumery trade. Steffan Arctander in his book Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin on page 516 and 517 describes black pepper as ...

Having struggled hard over the last few evenings, making concoctions that smell nothing like I want them to, a penny dropped this morning. I had been reading the Secret of Scent by Luca Turin and, in the book Mr Turin goes into great detail about the different chemicals that make up the most famous synthetic perfumes. I also learned about orris butter with it's complex mix of irones and what Luca describes as "it's magnificent, melancholy smell". He says when orris notes are used properly they "exude a frosty luxury which everyone falls in love with sooner or later". I also learned how experienced perfumers and chemists have created rose smells which have none of the heavy oily counterparts found in natural rose extracts. He speaks about transparent florals in a way that makes me want to sample some of these synthesized chemical groups. Instead I get to thinking of new ways of taking the natural essences and brightening them and making them translucen...